Wayne Wang ends the movie with an extended montage of real-life Chinatown juxtaposed against stereotypical lyrics of Pat Suzuki’s stirring rendition of the Rodgers and Hammerstein song ‘Grant Avenue’ from the 1958 Broadway stage musical ‘Flower Drum Song' - a choice that he later said was “tongue in cheek”.
Then … Appropriately the montage begins with a view stretching south down Grant Avenue from Jackson Street. The banner strung across the street adds to the truncated array of exotic (to the American eye) blade signs, many of them restaurant names.
… and Now, there are not as many signs today as there used to be, but that’s mitigated somewhat by the colorful overhead array of lanterns.
Then … A young man passing by hardly notices the rain as elderly ladies huddle under umbrellas in front of a window displaying a draped selection of patterned materials. The magazine rack against the tiles on the left alerted CitySleuth to this location - he had seen it earlier in the movie. This is the Washington Street side of the Imperial Fashion corner store at 867 Grant Avenue.
… and Now, the Heart Of Shanghai souvenir shop is the current tenant. The tiles seen above are behind the bubblegum machine below; they are hidden here by the retracted security bars but they have since been stuccoed over anyway.
Then … Next up, a detail on a pagoda-styled roof.
… and Now, this is the roof of 743 Washington Street, a branch of Bank of Canton when the movie was filmed but now a branch of EastWest bank. It’s a building with a very interesting history …
This used to be the Chinese Telephone Exchange which opened in 1901 at which time, pre dialing, the operators had to know all of the Chinatown customers by name and address because it was considered rude to refer to a person by number. Each operator also had to speak the many dialects of Chinese spoken by the residents. It was no surprise perhaps that the original male operators were soon replaced by women, on account of their "good temper". Here’s the building in 1947 (as seen in the movie The Lady From Shanghai two years before the exchange closed). Since then it has over the years housed a succession of banks.
The Lady From Shanghai also preserved a record of the inside of the exchange with this shot of two of the "good tempered" operators.
Then … Moving on, a fascination with texture might have drawn the filmmakers to this brick wall. Old bricks, stains, repairs, rusted iron anchor plates, wilting wooden window frames - you name it, you’ll find them all here. Not to mention a voyeuristic glimpse of an undergarment hung out to dry.
… and Now, over a period of many months CitySleuth, having committed this movie frame to memory, looked out for it every time he walked the streets of Chinatown. Then one day … Eureka! … there it was. 44 years later the anchor plates and the brick repairs around the windows remain unchanged. One big difference - the ground level has been raised, covering the previously exposed basement. And the rough-hewn charm of the venerable brickwork has been marred by garish graffiti-covering paint.
… and Now, it’s the south wall of an old building set back at the rear of this parking lot on Washington Street between Kearny and Grant (map).
Then … A moment of levity follows as an elderly lady walks along a balcony then stops and sways back and forth to the background music.
… and Now, she is outside apartment 117 at the Ping Yuen Central public housing complex at 711 Pacific Avenue (map) - the red box below outlines the area framed above.
… and Now, here’s a wider view of the apartment complex - the arrow points to apartment 117. The movie footage in the Then image above was filmed from the street through the railings. Ping Yuen Central was one of 3 sections of the housing project that opened in 1951 (Ping Yuen East, Ping Yuen Central, Ping Yuen West). A fourth section (Ping Yuen North) was added in 1961. (The name Ping Yuen translates to Tranquil Gardens).
Then … Next, a peek into a bakery window that’s displaying a kung fu poster, possibly at director Wang’s request; he references Asian stereotypes several times in the movie. The menu is also on display - it tells us where it is: Ping Yuen Bakery.
Then … The Ping Yuen Bakery was at 1066 Grant Avenue, glimpsed from Jo’s cab earlier in the movie (on the right, on the southeast corner of Grant Avenue and Pacific).
… and Now, that site, just like the old Telephone Exchange that appeared earlier in the montage, is also a branch of EastWest Bank.
Once again when the action hits the streets the director cuts between locations filmed in San Francisco and Los Angeles …
Then … Clarence slowly tails Red Moran to find out where he will deliver the bribe. As he crosses an intersection, note the streetlight post, mailbox and power pole cheek by jowl on the corner at right; these helped confirm the location.
and Now, This was filmed in Hollywood. They were heading east on Hollywood Boulevard, crossing Wilcox Avenue (map).
CitySleuth’s fellow gumshoe Notcom found this location. This vintage photo from the 1920s clearly show that grouping of streetlight, mailbox and power pole at Hollywood and Wilcox outside the Hollywood Public Market at 6500 Hollywood Boulevard. (There’s now a 7-Eleven at this site).
And this 1924 photo looking north up Wilcox with Hollywood Boulevard crossing ahead shows the same grouping at left. In addition it shows the white square pattern below the corner store window at right that is seen in the Then image above. Proof positive!
Moran sneaks into the office of deputy assistant D.A. Ray McDonald (Tom’s son) and leaves the bribe - a whopping $50,000 - on his desk.
Clarence accosts him as he leaves, resulting in an extended knock-down drag-out fight between them through the building.
Moran eventually prevails and rushes towards the exit. CitySleuth is curious as to where this interior was filmed, with its tiled walls and distinctive pillars.
Then … He flees the building (that’s Clarence’s car parked outside).
and Now, In the storyline the exit was from San Francisco’s City Hall but it was filmed in L.A. at the Masonic Temple at 6840 Hollywood Boulevard which today is the home of the Jimmy Kimmel late night television show.
Then … He leaps into a passing cab in front of the building that’s next to the Masonic Temple (partially visible at left).
and Now, This is the Mary Moll Building, still there at 6912 Hollywood Boulevard. Interesting and sad how a chunk of the classis building to the right of the entrance was demolished to make way for the nondescript store in its place.
Then … The cab cuts across town. The two hotels make this location easy to find. We are back in San Francisco: the Odeon was at 40 7th Street, the Atlanta at 92 7th Street. So the cab is heading east on Market at 7th.
and Now, The Federal Building at 90 7th Street and its plaza now sit where the two hotels used to be. It opened as an innovative energy-saving structure in 2007 to critical acclaim by fellow architects but considerable criticism by those who work in it. The doorway in the center both Then and Now with a fanciful masonry pediment above it is the entrance to the Independent Order Of Odd Fellows Hall. The building has housed the IOOF organization since 1909 and more recently other tenants but has recently been listed for sale.
Then … Clarence follows; he’s also travelling east on Market, between 7th and 8th Streets just passing the Civic Center Market at 1143-1145 Market and an Army and Navy Goods store at 1133 Market.
and Now, These are those same addresses today. The building on the right that housed the Civic Center Market has since been replaced by the white-walled office building but a thrift store continues to do business at 1143 Market on the left.
Then … Jo has given up on finding Chan Hung. “Here’s a picture of Chan”, he says, “and I still can’t see him”. The two friends are posing on either side of a Buddha in front of a gift shop. (That’s director Wayne Wang posing as Chan). The reflection in the window of the building across the street was the clue that led CitySleuth to this location.
… and Now, here’s the same shop window today with the same reflection. This is the Canton Bazaar gift shop at 616 Grant Avenue. Compare the Then and Now reflection within the highlighted area but don’t be fooled by the fact that one of the reflected building’s windows below its carved wooden pediment has since been bricked up.
… and Now, the reflected building was then, and still is today, the Bank of America Chinatown branch at 701 Grant on the corner of Sacramento. Note the carved wooden pediments that span groups of three windows; one of each group is now bricked up. The blue box outlines the area reflected in the Canton Bazaar shop window (that reflection of course is a reversed mirror image).
Bank of America opened the branch in 1962 in what was originally the Nanking Fook Woh Company building. In this 1960s photo we see the window (at left, partially obscured) before it was bricked up.
The Canton Bazaar building was built soon after the 1906 earthquake - it’s seen here in a 1910 photograph that also shows the Nanking Fook Woh Co. building on the left. Had the man next to the Canton Bazaar entrance stopped and looked back he would have seen the same reflection in its window of the area outlined in yellow that director Wang captured behind Jo seventy years later.
… and Now, it’s been 114 years since it opened and the Canton Bazaar is still there. In Chinatown, a neighborhood of relative stability, many things resist change.
On a historical note, the Nanking Fook Woh Company imported and sold oriental fine arts. This colorful lithograph depicted it soon after it was built. Note the cable car on Sacramento Street running on the Sacramento & Clay line that would eventually close down in 1942.
And, thirty or so years later, here’s a cable car at that corner one year before the line closed down; the tenant in the Nanking Fook Woh Company building at that time was T. Iwata & Co. Incidentally, the telegram office on the left appeared in scenes in the 1948 noir Walk A Crooked Mile and in the 1949 noir Impact - each posted in this blog.
Then … Blotz arrives at his destination. Finding this location was easy for CitySleuth - he turned to John Bengston, host of the blog silentlocations.com, knowing that he had already discovered it in numerous silent movies and that he had described it in detail in his blog. This is E. Cahuenga Alley in Hollywood, since renamed the Chaplin-Keaton-Lloyd Alley in recognition of the silent movie stars who filmed there (map).
… in 1922 … 3 years earlier Buster Keaton was filmed at exactly this spot in the comedy My Wife’s Relations.
… and Now, here’s how that location looks today. The building facing us, other than its brick walls having been stuccoed over, hasn’t changed.
In this 1920s aerial photo the T-shaped alley is highlighted in yellow. It has an east-west section between Cahuenga and Cosmo and a north-south section down to Selma Avenue. The circle shows where Blotz’s car was parked, at the corner with Cosmo.
… and Now, this matching Google satellite view shows the alley as it looks today. It’s a century later but several of these buildings are still there.
Then … Blotz enters the Pal’s Club via a back entrance. But where was this doorway? There aren’t any other views or clues to help find it, other than the adjacent elevated window with security bars on the left.
Once again silentlocations.com provides the answer. John Bengston came across the same doorway in the 1932 silent movie Hells House (on the left, below). This was filmed 7 years after The Last Edition but check out how various wall features still matched up.
The Pal’s Club doorway showed up in the 1933 film Torchy’s Kitty Coup. Here you see a wider view of it (with a sign attached across it) and the adjacent elevated window with security bars.
… and Now, this rather poor quality photo captured the doorway as it looks today, seen here looking along the section of Cahuenga Alley that runs south down to Selma Ave. There’s now a metal box covering the adjacent window.
In this 1920s aerial photo the doorway is indicated by the black circle.
Meanwhile Clarence has caught up with Blotz and spots him entering the club. This was filmed in the east-west section of the alley; Cahuenga Blvd crosses in the background.
Then … Unable to enter the back door he takes a chance on spotting Blotz within one of the building’s windows; He (well, a stunt-man, no doubt) daringly climbs to an adjoining rooftop then down to the window. Note the address number on the Chime Lunch sign - 6374; this is the rear of 6374 Hollywood Boulevard.
That building is circled in this 1920s aerial view; the arrow points to the window that Clarence is about to peer into…
The building was seen in the 1933 filmTorchy’s Kitty Coup scene referenced earlier; the view looks in the other direction along the same alley. Note the Pal’s Club doorway on the left.
… and Now, the purple-walled building facing us at the end of the alley has since been added in front of the Chime Lunch building. The Pal’s Club doorway is highlighted at left. (Note the continuity hiccup - we now realize that the doorway and the window he climbed up to were not part of the same building).
… then when Clarence looks inside there’s another continuity goof - this is a different window; the brick windowsill is not the same as in the Then image above. To be fair, most movie watchers would never notice, but CitySleuth obsesses over details like this.
He’s in luck - he sees Blotz conferring with his accomplice Red Moran and overhears him, livid over his exposé by the Chronicle, making a call to the city’s assistant D.A. Gerald Fuller to get the police off his back then instructing Moran to deliver a cash bribe to him.
